We’ve consulted the judges, tallied the scores, checked and rechecked the figures, and we are ready to tackle our first favorites post of the great Road Trip Almost Without End now that it’s ended (for some reason I always hear “It’s over Belle” in my head when thinking about the end of the trip).

The category is: favorite tollway state (for some reason I always whisper that in my head. Perhaps a few too many episodes of Password).

Okay, we got our first tollway bill and it just happens to be from our winner – drumroll please – Massachusetts. They are the winner because they caused the least disruption – it was all automatic from beginning to end, just a little sign that you were on a tollway.

We encountered our first tollway in Pennsylvania and they still had the toll booth infrastructure in place, but with one of those flashing roadside signs telling us to ignore it as they were all electronic now. Nobody did, we all crept up to the booth and then stopped and stared at the empty booth before zooming on. After that first one, I went through as fast as I was able, but there were plenty of people who kept acting like they were going to have to physically pay a toll.

New York was the worst because it had a mix of automatic plate readers and physical booths (half of which gave you a ticket and the other half that took your money, and one pair we didn’t have to pay at all but took it still took just as long) plus the construction where they were taking out toll booths and then a mile or two down the road where they were installing automatic plate readers both of which slowed down traffic – you just never knew what was coming and you had to slow down twice as often.

Maine was simply annoying – but at least it was all physical. They had a 3 dollar toll near the New Hampshire border and a 1 dollar toll up north. No doubt it was because they wanted to get all the money from the tourists down south but the aggravation of stopping to pay a 1 dollar toll almost, almost won them the worst spot.

The only redeeming feature of the toll booths was the Ben Hur-esque experience of pulling away – all those drivers after separating into many lanes were all trying to beat the other drivers back into two lanes. Boy did I want to whip the horses and the other drivers, only there were no horses or whips, mores the pity.

And the picture is in honor of Mr. Revere who didn’t pay no stinking tolls on his great road trip.

UPDATE: New York is also the most inept since 6 months later we have never received a bill from them.

Tags: RTAWE

RTAWE – the day after.

Ran, lifted weights, went to the grocery store, paid bills, ate breakfast, lunch, and dinner at home, downloaded pictures to the computer, logged food and exercise for the first time in 24 days.

We aren’t on the mountain top anymore.

Tags: RTAWE

The Road Trip Almost Without End Reached its End, 24 days after the start. The bags are unpacked, I’ve had a couple of glasses of St Louis water, and I’m looking forward to sleeping in my own bed, eating non-restaurant food, and lifting weights in the basement again.

Almost 4,400 miles, 10 hotels/AirBnbs, 13 states, countless joys, and most importantly no nights sleeping in the car.

I don’t know if we will ever be gone so long or change locations so frequently again.

Oops, I left this off but I have to add it: “Live Free or Die!”

Tags: RTAWE

Welcome back my friends to the show that never ends. At least until tomorrow, I love ya, you’re always a day away. Tomorrow we gird our loins for the nine plus hour drive home, where our thought’s escaping.

But today we enjoyed Pittsburgh. We rode up the Duquesne Incline to Mt Washington where we discovered a fabulous view of the city and that everything was closed except a coffee shop and an ice cream store. Given that it was before noon, we opted for coffee and a chat with the proprietor and two of his cronies.

Despite our lunch plans being dashed, we pivoted without remorse and drove off in search of the Strip, another of Pittsburgh’s many, many neighborhoods, for lunch and a stroll to gawk at the shops. Mostly it was places that sold Steelers gear (good thing I knew that the terrible in terrible towel is not about the actual quality but instead some ineffable quality that only a true Steeler fan understands, oh, this just in it was a radio station marketing gimmic) or pandemic wear, but there was also a candy store (and yes, it also sold fudge).

Then it was off to enjoy the sylvan delights of Schenley Park. Let me just take a moment to again comment on driving in Pittsburgh but this time I’d like to point out that when you put a destination in the map app it provides three routes, all of which involve crossing at least one bridge, all take completely different approaches, and yet arrive within minutes of each other – but none are direct and all take far longer than the distance would imply.

The weather threatened rain all day, so after napping – finally something that resembles the retirement I anticipated – we set off to find an open restaurant before the sky’s opened up. We had passed by Cappy’s several times and always mentally inserted an extra letter, but tonight we decided beggars can’t be choosers so Cappy’s it was. Another great dive bar experience, as we were able to eat light (and tasty!), had a nice chat about this and that with the staff – including how one of them got to shake Lou Brock’s hand when Lou was here visiting a relative, and then the shaker of Lou’s hand even chased after us for several blocks because somehow I left my credit card behind. I think with that the trip is complete.

The couple we met in the finger lakes told us to go up the Duquesne, not the Monongahela Incline because the view was better so we did, but we wound up walking along the top over to the other one where this picture was taken

Here is the view of the three rivers: Ohio to the left, formed by the Allegheny to the top and Monongahela to the right. This is the view from the top of the Duquesne Incline

Three flavors of bacon soda – plain, with chocolate, and with maple – and I didn’t buy any. MBH thought this is where chopped got all their weird soda flavors because they had plenty of weird “who would drink that” flavors unlike the bacon ones

Tags: RTAWE

We decided to celebrate breaking the three week vacation limit by taking the day off – yes, we took a vacation from vacation. So no run this morning, we went out for breakfast (first time since Gettysburg we didn’t make our own which for me is bacon, cheese omelette, and sometimes yogurt or a banana (running days) and a bowl of cereal for My Better Half (MBH)), church via tape delay, Adult Bible Fellowship via Zoom, and minimal sightseeing (still about three miles of walking) as neither of us felt our best. It isn’t a vacation if there isn’t a death march.

After some down time, we drove to dinner (we put road in road trip), walked around the Southside afterwards, visited a gas station so that we had more than fumes in the tank and where I took the opportunity to spread more dirt on the windshield but at least got the bug guts off, and to buy milk & cheese. Homemade breakfast resumes tomorrow and we need to be ready for it.

Driving in Pittsburgh is an experience all it’s own, with an eclectic mix of bridges, elevation changes, 15 MPH curves on major streets and highways, a mishmash of neighborhood road grids that don’t align with each other, major roads that snake around for no apparent reason, plus all the usual features like people who want to go 55 in a 35 and road construction with random lane closures. Since it’s a city, you have buses and pedestrians thrown in for good measure. Why yes, I am looking forward to the day I point the car west, get on the interstate, set the cruise control, and for 600 miles just stay in the right lane except to pass. Sounds like pure bliss. Total boredom, but pure bliss.

Everyday is a good day, but some days are less exciting then others. And four paragraphs about nothing is a Seinfeld episode. At least I finished a book during my downtime. I’m glad you finished another of my posts, not everyone can.

I like to think of walking around a city as an urban hike, sounds much better that way. Lots of interesting houses in Shady Side (I didn’t name the neighborhood, I’m just staying in it).  

So no selfies today, just architecture.

We walked around Carnegie-Mellon University and ignored the face mask required signs in the quad because it was a sunny, breezy day and there weren’t many people out and about.

The only thing worse than modern art is modern art on a college campus

View of the city from Flagstaff Hill. I kind of get the impression that a long time ago the city was very hilly so they did a lot of leveling and filling so now there are a bunch of flattish areas at different elevations with very steep transition zones between.

Tags: RTAWE

We have arrived in Pittsburgh! Last stop before we drive back home. After so much time spent in rural America we are firmly in the bosom of this great city where we walked to dinner and are staying in an apartment building. I can safely say after another day spent mainly driving two lane backroads with urban driving at the end, Green Acres is the place I’d rather be, not Park Avenue. Yes the rural pick ups like to try and push you along by tailgating, but the urban Subaru driver loves nothing more than going 65 in a 35 and trying to cut you off from the lane you need to be in, but you just don’t know it yet.

We stopped at Letchworth State Park in New York at the recommendation of The Chirino’s via Paula Seward and boy are we happy we did (and they did). After Watkins Glen and Letchworth I’m about out of adjectives. It pains me, really pains me, to say this, but boy is New York a beautiful state. You can keep NYC, but give me NY.

I think we’ve managed to hit a lot, I mean a lot of eastern mountains this trip. We even managed to find mountains in Maine! Today we added the Alleghenies to the Whites, Greens, Adirondacks, and all the other mountains we’ve seen in literally, and I mean that in the correct literal way, in every state we’ve been to, from Kentucky, West Virginia, Maryland, Massachusetts to the ranges I’ve named already. Mind blown.

I’m happy to report that at this point I’m declaring my goals for the trip met since I’m sitting (OK, I’m laying on the couch) in the last Airbnb so no sleeping in the car and I’ve had a blast everyday, even those I’m worn out from a long day of driving.

We’ve decided we need to come back this way in the fall when the leaves are red, gold, and purple, but not this year. And Brunch tomorrow. I think two decisions are enough for one day.

And on that bombshell, goodnight!

Tags: RTAWE

Today we decided not dawdle in the morning to beat the crowds at Watkins Glen. We were out the door by 9AM which I know for you working stiffs does not qualify as early. We again drove down the West side of Lake Seneca, but all the way to the end and beyond this time. The Gorge trail at Watkins Glen was amazing and beautiful and mind blowing and prematurely over as the last half mile was closed. And then to make it one way, you had to take one of the rim trails back to the parking lot. We weren’t sure we had beat the crowds until we got back to the visitor center and parking lot and saw that yep, we beat the crowds. But the most amazing thing was just how exquisite our timing was because as we went through the entrance tunnel to the gorge MBH was able to have part of the ceiling fall off and hit her in the head – fortunately she suffered only surprise and alarm but no injury. Good thing the ceiling wasn’t higher because then it might have hit me in the head.

We managed to squeeze in a couple more wineries (McGregor & Heron Hill) on Lake Keuka (pronounced just how it sounds) afterwards. We called ahead to make reservations, but apparently you only need them if you want a tasting, but not a glass or bottle. We are all adjusting to the constantly changing restrictions and challenges of 2020. Of course you still have to buy a food item to keep coronavirus away. The waitress last night was explaining that some food, like pizza, can cover two people, but most can only cover one and some don’t cover you at all. Fortunately for us, charcuterie boards can cover two, but we both had to buy oyster crackers at the second winery.

Good fortune followed us all day as not only was the weather near perfect but we sat next to a couple at the first winery who had been staying at a VRBO cottage on the lake all week so were as eager to talk to strangers as we were. A good time was had by all, including the men.

We drove on nothing but two lane back roads today: state highways, county roads, a couple of main streets, and some plain old roads that lacked lane markings of any kind (they even lacked shoulders I think, but without an outside line I’m just going by the narrowness of the pavement). We were never on the same road for more than five miles on the way back from Heron Hill which took two women – Siri & MBH – to keep me on track. At one point we turned of State 364 and then about four roads later turned back on to it (for a few miles, anyway).

And finally (I thought he’d never end): Please buy my book, Travels with MBH, once I get it edited down to a reasonable, Tom Clancy ish length.

In the gorge.  

We, and by we I mean MBH, decided she would only ask people not wearing a mask to take our picture, and by golly that worked just fine.

The start of today’s adventure, and the gorge, although technically it’s the streams exit from the gorge. Plus nobody has taken a rock to the cranium yet.

Standing on the suspension bridge high above the gorge on our way back. If I may tootle our own horn with vigor, we aren’t doing too bad for our age. Just don’t ask me about my hip.

On the rim trail building these are a thing. I have no idea if workers demolish them every year or if they’ve been here for decades. Oddly enough, they were trail markers on top of Mt Pemetic in Acadia.

God: Nietzsche is dead.

Yes, I know the spelling isn’t the same, but the best puns are bad puns. And this is the photo and caption equivalent of a bad pun. Sorta.

Tags: RTAWE

I write this from our deck at sunset.

While you might think I include everything that happens (and then some), I don’t even include half of what happens, or even the best parts so that I still have stories to tell when I see you IRL. Whether I still remember or even get to see you IRL is an open question.

Ah, the joy of not traveling while on vacation. Again we were not cooped up in our car for a long time. We drove down the west side of Lake Canandaigua to Conklin Gully where we went for a hike recommended by the Airbnb owner after we complained about the crowds in other locations. If you aren’t the only hikers, then there will be only one other group on the trail he told us. When we arrived at the trailhead, there was only one other car in the lot – so far so good. By the time we swapped out for our hiking shoes (we have a bin with our shoes in the back of the car), someone else pulled onto the lot. By the time we finished the hike and returned to our car, the lot was mostly full – 20ish cars. These are not normal times. We did have a nice chat with a local as he asked us where we were from since the Honda frame covers up the Missouri on our plates (maybe that’s why no police have pulled us over to ask if we are quarantining) and we don’t let any opportunity to talk to someone besides each other go to waste.

The trail itself basically went steeply up the side of the gully so there was an ever steepening drop off to the stream that remained stubbornly below. It was hard to see the gully for the trees. About a third of the way, there was a huge stone cliff and the gully was only 20 feet below us, and my brain rejoiced. We kept going up however, until we went steeply down to a bridge that crossed the gully. We turned around there as there was a Boy Scout troop on the far side that was apparently combining backpacking with rappelling.

Then it was back the east side of the lake so we could walk around the nice downtown here and have lunch. They have a crepery here so there was much rejoicing. Aferwards we set off to Sonnenberg Mansion and Gardens if only because the mansion was open. However the second floor was closed because of the virus according to a sign – I’m not sure why that means any floor above the first was off limits but I was just glad it was open at all. They had a ten person limit and despite the fact they had made a single door the only entrance and exit the docent had to go inside and count the people before letting us in. Apparently keeping a running total is not as easy as I think.

We enjoyed dinner on a rooftop restaurant with our near customary splitting of a meal. The waitress, who was obligingly chatty, told us we would be enjoying sunset soon. An hour later I checked the weather app as the sun seemed no where near setting only to discover we had another hour to go. Soon is a relative term. We left the restaurant which we belatedly discovered catered to the older man younger woman crowd and I got to watch sunset from our own deck.

Tags: RTAWE

For us time time does not exist. Our mission to seek out strange new places has brought us to Canandaigua (pronounced just like it’s spelled) where we spent the day and look forward to two more.

After spending a long day in the car yesterday, we decided to relax and take it easy so we visited a couple of nearby wineries – one recommended by our waiter last night and the other by the Airbnb owners this morning. The owners run a surveying firm out of the front of the old house we are staying in, so we went over and chatted with them this morning with all the clingy intensity that a couple that’s spent two and a half weeks together on the road with only Erin to break up the monotony can muster. Imagine our surprise when it turned out that they were next to each other – not adjacent, but the second was the first winery you came to when leaving the first. Then it was back to the Canandaigua city pier and dinner.

New York is one of the states that mandate that in order to serve alcohol you have to also sell a food item in the same transaction (Pennsylvania is another) because then you aren’t in a bar so you won’t catch the coronavirus. While they include a 0.50$ package of oyster crackers with your tasting, if you want to stay and buy a glass or a bottle then you have to include a food item with it. So now we have a lovely cutting board, knife, and substantial wooden food picks from the charcuterie (pronounced just like it’s spelled) box we ordered for lunch. We, and by we I mean mainly me, ate all the cheese curds from the second winery. As I always say, there are The Quick and The Hungry but then I’m famous for mangling quotes and song lyrics. Well, more like infamous, but in a not widely known sort of way.

And on that bombshell it’s time to end. Goodnight!

Tags: RTAWE

Today was a long day of driving, over seven hours not including stops. We rolled thru 3,000 miles in the morning, but this time we didn’t notice. Back when I spent an hour commuting every day, my right foot, ankle, knee and both cheeks were like iron. I could drive all day and not notice. Now that days go by without me getting behind the wheel, and when I do drive it’s like 2 minutes, I’ve turned to clay, clay that gets tired and sore easily. I know, whaa whaa whaa, would you like some cheese to go with that wine.

We drove through Vermont without stopping (my better half is still miffed we had to cancel our Airbnb there), crossed Lake Champlain, and then took a maze of county roads in the Adirondacks before reaching I-89 for a single exit, and then through Pottersville (no Nick’s) and a series of state highways still in the Adirondacks and beyond before getting to a nice long stretch of I-90. We drove through all kinds of weather: a couple of moments of sunshine, mostly overcast, and some rain. The rain was all in the Adirondacks which were beautiful when it wasn’t raining. The big issue we had with taking side roads was that there were few places to eat, all closed on a Tuesday afternoon, and few gas stations but at least all we needed was the one open one we found. Our emergency almonds came in handy.

Vermont and New York were full of signs warning about Moose, so I said “promises promises” for each one until even I got tired of it, there were so many signs. Plenty of turkeys though. Even dead ones. Vermont was (virtually) empty of cars with out-of-state license plates, but we did see a couple of Massachusetts plates.

The good news is we are staying at this Airbnb for four nights. Hallelujah! MBH mentioned a couple of days ago next trip we are going somewhere and staying there. Not that long ago I would have said “how boring”, but now I say “how relaxing”.

One thing I’ve learned from this trip is that not only can you not see the forest for the trees, you can’t see lakes and mountains for the trees too. Let me just say we will never run out of wood and pulp in this country given how absolutely covered in trees the Eastern half of the country is.

What is the dividing line between New Hampshire and Vermont? The Connecticut River.

And on that bombshell we end today’s episode.

Tags: RTAWE